So I purchased a type s with a manual trans, and the 3rd gear was grinding and it feels just a worn out blocker ring(people called it synchro) in 3rd gear , since I couldnt find any where to get the parts for that to rebuild trany , maybe I should ask you guys for help. ether same transmission on other honda or acura exactly the same and i can search off that or a source that can get just sets of blocker rings( I tried order from acura and they only selling a complete set of synchronizer)
I purchased a new RDX. So far like the car a lot, Some really annoying things like no power folding mirrors, infotainment, mpg, ugly wheels, but the basic package is pretty good. I have a few questions about break-in.
Does Acura limit the performance during break-in like some other manufacturers? I was reading some of the road tests and this is supposed to be anywhere from a high 5 second to low 6 second 0-60 ride. We did a little impromptu drag and he pulled and best 0-60 I've even seen for that scooter is high 6 second range. Based on our little run my RDX is likely in the mid 7's. I drove a new honda passport and pilot and they both seemed quicker than my RDX but all testing puts them much slower.
I have about 400 miles on. I hope Acura is limiting something because if they aren't I have one slow turd of a vehicle. Anyone else have any experience with their RDX? When I get some more miles on it I will slap on the gauges and accurately measure it. Right now off the line it seems pretty quick to about 30 and then just seems to fall on its face. I was in sport + mode and S for the gear selector. I would guess 0-30 is in the low 2's which should setup a lot 6 second to high 5 second 0-60. I am running 93 octane in it so I know it isn't the fuel. I am also at sea level and without AC on and the temps were mid 80's F.
I am extremely saddened to have to relay that yesterday I was in a 6 car pileup on I95 in Philadelphia. Somehow I escaped with absolutely not 1 scratch on me! I was unfortunately the last in line to get caught up in a huge accident that occurred a few cars ahead of me. I had no where to go and slammed into the vehicle ahead of me. As you can see from the pictures, I was following at a more than safe distance and reacted as quickly as possible. I attribute the minimal amount of damage to my car and me escaping without any injury whatsoever to do the stopping power of those Brembos! I slammed into a brand new Honda Civic that was crushed from the impact it made with the vehicle ahead of it, yet my car looks like nothing even happened. The impact was enough to deploy both the driver and passenger front airbags, so as we all know... it is going to be a total loss at this point. With 186,000 miles and being an 04...its over. Of course, like most of us here, this car couldn't have been in any more perfect condition. I maintained this car meticulously since day 1. Just in the last week, I had done an entire tune up including new coil packs, spark plugs, and valve adjustment. This car was in absolute perfect show condition. I am so mad because of course I am not going to get anything for all the money put into making this car last forever or any of the modifications or rare and expensive parts. I also can't imagine I am going to get more than a couple thousand dollars for it. Everything in this car was in perfect condition from the seats, rear seats, you name it.... everything perfect!!!!!! Wish i had an opportunity for everyone to strip this thing apart and get some of the amazing parts I had. So upset....but I walked away unhurt...amazing. Linking some pictures of a few cars that were involved. The others were parked another half a mile or so up the road.
Going to look at an Infiniti G37S 6MT Coupe today... can't think of any other cars that would make me happy. Need that manual transmission!
Pirelli PZERO All Season Plus
DEPO clear tails
Triton V3 LED turn signals
AEM V2 - CAI
AEM DryFlow Filter
SKUNK2 weighted 440G shift knob
Comptech Short Throw Shifter
Comptech Exhaust System
RV6 Test Pipe
CorSport Shifter Bushings
CorSport Transmission Bushing
engraved pedal set
ASPEC Steering Wheel
ASPEC sides
ASPEC front underbody spoiler
ASPEC rear underbody spoiler
ASPEC 18x8.5 Wheels - just re-painted and refinished
ASPEC M/T Suspension
ASPEC decklid spoiler
OEM Carbon Fiber kit - cup holders / seat heater switches
OEM Rear Carbon Fiber kit (rear HVAC)
roof spoiler
Door Edge Guards - painted
body side molding - painted
ACURA all weather floor mats
ACURA trunk tray
NavTool
Custom Backup Camera
Full LED conversion - including dash / instrument panel / doors / map / courtesy / visor / trunk / license plate light
TYPE S Sidemarkers
2016 rdx awd and awp , 40,500 mi, rear brakes, down to metal on one pad, other pad still has life.
also need tires soon, michelins have 5k left on them. I also use snow tires/wheels for 4 months a year, so maybe 30k on OEM michelins.
looking at Conti cross contact 25 (new model replacing the 20). , 70k mi warranty.
Hey, had a new issue this morning... no heat. Fan blowing, coolant fine, etc, just no heat, blowing ambient temperature air.
I got to digging around with the fan on low tapping on things and wiggling wires behind the glove box and on both sides in front of the console. Repeated while changing the temperature setting.
Then finally on the drivers side ahead of the console, I believe the box was greenish in color? I'd have to go look but anyways it finally started actuating and when it did it made a sort of honking noise like something needs lubricating???
I could swear I heard that sound once before a long time ago, searched around here and found there was indeed something known to get dry and need lube? But I can't find it or I am having a brain lapse?
Can you guys shed a little light on this for me? Am I not remembering correctly?
What do I do? How do I get at it? What are my lubrication options?
Ironically I had some issues this summer driving places and then getting back in to leave and the AC not working. Thought I had that fixed but maybe this is related and why that issue was intermittent?
I am guessing this door flap directs air either through, over the heater core or over the AC coil?
Anyways need to fix this cause I am going to need heat in the morning and AC in the afternoon for a little while as the seasons change.
I have an 02 RSX Type-S and I recently got in an accident which broke the sensor pictured below. It is located above the throttle body and I was wondering what it is, where to buy another one, and how to replace it.
So my 2010 Acura MDX screen is black. Not working. The back-up Camera works perfect and shows on the screen when I am reversing and all buttons work as well. . The navigation screen doesnt turn on when I need it to. Does anyone have any idea why?
kinda lost on what to do with this problem I bought a 04 with navi and when I bought the car the navigation screen was broken obviously it was punched by previous owner for some reason anyways when I bought the car the stereo worked just fine and the navigation screen would still turn on but would go black after a few second and the climate control screen would fade in and out seemed to stay on longer in colder weather. but recently the stereo does not work and navi screen doesn't turn on at all and the climate control screen doesn't come on at all either. now I was going to spend about 500 bucks on new/used radio,navi,climatcontrol screen but I don't want to waste that kind of money if its just a fuse or electrical problem has anyone ever had this issue with their tl and know where to start to try and diagnose this problem... and it does look like the dash area has been touched in the past some panels are not lined up properly any help is much appreciated thanks
Yesterday while driving around 20mph in local stop and go traffic, out of the blue the transmission shifted by itself into neutral which caused me to red line the engine immediately and then in the MID a message said something to the effect of: "Transmission to hot, put the car in park, and turn off the engine."
I did that immediately and after a few minutes to let it cool down, I started it up again and it seemed to operate normally. I called the dealer and told them what I just experienced and to ask for advice. Obviously I was going to the dealer asap but I wanted to know what might have caused that to happen. The dealer told me that the last time I had serviced the transmission and rear differential was at 33,000 miles. I was now at 92,000 miles and was horrified that I had not performed that service 30,000 miles ago. I never saw a warning message and the dealer never told me that it had not been done at 60,000 miles, but I never experienced any performance issues at all, to provide a kick in the ass that I was stupid and did not get that service done a long time ago. I don't blame the dealer. I blame myself as it is ultimately my responsibility. So I got it done today and they showed me what came out of both ends of the car. It was effectively mud colored fluid. It looked like used motor oil. That is bad. However on further inspection they discovered a leaky seal at the transmission where the drive shaft connects. I am getting that maintenance done next week. It is not a major leak but it is there.
So if you have not completed this maintenance at the 30,000 mile increments, here is your reminder. Be well and be safe.
Posted this on another forum after a flood of car related threads, figured it'd probably get more traction (pun) here.
What your car history?
1982 Mercedes-Benz 240D Bought in 2002 with >300k miles on it (stopped odometer). Hindsight, was a perfect car for a 16 year old driver. As I recall it had something like 64hp when it was new, to date, still the slowest car I've ever driven.
Drove it for about 9 months. Was rear ended by an F150 on a light rain day as I was slowing for a stop light. Heard the squealing tires & looked in the rear view mirror in time to watch the trunk fold in half. Luckily no one was in front of me & the cross traffic light hadn't changed yet.
Despite the hard hit, you could still open & close the back door unimpeded.
Did something like $7k in damage to a car that was worth about $2k.
1982 Mercedes-Benz 300SD Bought in 2003 to replace the totalled 240D.
Again with over 300k miles & a stopped odometer. The turbo-diesel I5 had a bit more pep than the non-turbo 240D. It wasn't until we were selling it that we had a buyer notice that the wastegate was stuck open, so it was only quicker because it had an extra cylinder.
Drove it through high school & sold it before heading off to college.
1987 Chevrolet Suburban Silverado Was an extra car we had in our family. Drove it in the interim when the above 240D had transmission issues & the time between the 240D & 300SD.
We bought it in 1994 & still have it. It's since been retired to ranch duty & lives down in S TX on our property. Has also been converted into a crew cab pickup (rear roof & windows cut out, tailgate removed, pickup cab back welded in.
1996 Saturn SL2 Purchased about a month before I headed off to college in 2004. IIRC, we bought it from a coworker of my dad's that had replaced the engine & was just using it as an RV tow-car. 3 accidents in this one. Lost traction in a 270* exit ramp in Austin & slid into the guardrail, light fender (plastic) damage & alignment thrown off. Lost rear traction in a lane change & slid into the trailer of a semi. Pure luck on this one, as it could've been much worse. Car slid in the rear (still unsure how, was not speeding) and pointed me right at the side of the trailer. Countersteered & hit the jack of the trailer, and luckily spun outward from the trailer & stopped partially on the sidewalk. Fender, hood & 'frame' damage where the jack hit the car, A/C never worked right after that either. No injuries, luckily. The one that did it in: On my way to class after moving back to Houston. Waiting to pull into a parking lot near a large high school during the morning rush. Cars in the opposite direction made a gap & waved me through. Didn't realize the 3rd lane was empty & got t-boned by an SUV, about where the R rear door & fender meet.. Similar to the 240D accident, I looked over right before he hit me & watched it happen. Car executed a rapid 360*, couple broken windows & tossed my speaker box from the trunk (landed about 25ft from the car). The Saturn was a good car, did quite a bit of autocross in it & had a good time beating some kids in more expensive cars with a bone stock, automatic, Saturn.
1997 Honda Civic EX Coupe Replaced the Saturn with something a bit more fun to drive. 5 speed manual, 2 doors, and a near 8k redline. Prior experience tamed my driving down a bit & the Civic lasted a good while without too many major problems until the transmission started going out. Threw in a new trans & clutch, and drove it for a while longer until I got tired of the heavy clutch & manual transmission in heavy Houston traffic. Sold & decided to get a car with an automatic.
1996 Infiniti J30 An interesting one & to this day don't recall seeing too many on the roads. Similar to how this Lexus IS300 was like a 4-door non-turbo Supra, the J30 was effectively a 4-door, automatic, non-turbo 300ZX (drivetrain-wise). Was a fun car & handled pretty well. Had Reverse fail in the transmission, and Infiniti wanted $4k to replace it. Found a used trans with a warranty via LQK for $300 & got a mechanic to replace it for $150. Sold the car shortly afterward. Hurrican Ike came through Houston & the >$4/gal for Premium was too much for a broke college student.
1993 Honda Accord SE Inherited from my sister when she got a new car. My dad had bought it from a customer (he was working in svc at a Honda dealer at the time) with a blown engine, for $200. Put a good engine in it & drove it through the rest of college. Donated to a family in need that my parents knew.
2000 Acura TL Bought off a friend of my dad's with a blown transmission. Put in a new transmission & drove this one for about 4.5 years. Toward the end, the transmission was starting to slip in 1st, it had a terrible hot start issue (felt like running on 2 cylinders), and the A/C didn't cool amazingly well. Traded in at about 245k miles for my wife's Ford Flex.
2004 Honda Civic LX Inherited from my wife when she got the Flex. A good car that ran great & saw as high as 38mpg (drafting my dad in his Silverado on a long highway drive). Only problem we had out of it was that it jumped timing while driving (1 tooth, luckily, which wasn't enough to cause piston+valve death). Donated to my sister when we bought a truck.
2016 Ford F150 XLT Bought to further help with my wife's business, as loading/unloading everything from her Flex was putting a strain on her back. Did a lot of shopping on this one & drove multiple 2013-14 F150s, to the point of getting 99% through a deal on a 2014 before the dealer pulled the plug on it do to a safety recall that made the truck unable to be sold retail. Found that a new 2016 could be had for about the same price. Lucky for the warranty on this one. Multiple visits to the dealer for issues with the panoramic sunroof (rattles, squeaks). Treaded in just prior to warranty expiration, as the dealer was unable to resolve the sunroof issues & I was past the limit for lemon law.
Current Garage Occupants: 2013 Ford Flex SEL Wife's current DD We decided we wanted a larger vehicle with our growing family, and my wife was in an MLM company and needed the cargo space for hauling her inventory. Still have this one & just over 150k miles. Problem free (apart from the no crank issue I'd posted on here) & low maintenance so far. Has only needed gas, oil changes & 1 set of tires.
2015 Mercedes-Benz C300 Sport Current DD for me. When we decided to get rid of the truck, I test drove just about everything that I had even remote interest in. Kia Stinger, Honda Accord, Mazda6, Hyundai Genesis/G80, VW GTI, VW Golf Alltrack, Mercedes C400. The Stinger was my top choice, but they had just come out & dealers were not budging much off of full MSRP. GTI wasa my 2nd choice, but the Autobahn trim was out of our budget. Was just about set to make a deal on a new Mazda6, when I stumbled on the Mercedes. Drove a couple C400s & loved them, but the plug was pulled on those when I talked to my ins agent. Premiums were nearly double what they are for the C300. Ended up in a CPO C300 with 16k miles for almost 50% of original sticker price. A few warranty repaired issues later & the car has been great. Only original complaint is that the OE Continental tires wore out to the wear bars on the rear in just 16k miles.
2001 Indian Scout Not technically mine, but living in my garage at the moment. Belongs to my father-in-law who is en route to relocating to Houston after selling their house in CA. He's made a few trips out here & brought a few loads to make the final move a bit easier. Conveniently, he left the keys & it gets ridden a bit by me on a nice day.
When I've had SUVs before I've often set up a full-size spare with a standard aluminum wheel that matches all the other wheels. This is in case I got a flat in an area some distance from where the tire could be serviced so I can ride indefinitely on a full-size spare with standard wheel. Moreover I would rotate tires with the standard spare increasing the lifetime of all tires on active wheels. Has anyone tried to fit a full-size spare tire in their MDX Iva 2019 hybrid. Thank you
Hey All. Picked up a ore owned 2016 tech RDX 2 weeks ago from a acura dealer. Today I did groceries and opened my trunk with the key fib with no issues. When I got home to unload the groceries, I used the key fob to open the trunk. The trunk opened half way then proceeded to go back down and close. I pressed the key fob again to open the trunk and an amber light lit up but the trunk didnt open. Tried the button under the license plate and it didnt open
Just heard a clicking sound. Tried the trunk button in the car and still nothing. The dash displays tailgate open but it looks like it slightly open but I cant push it completely closed. What's even more strange is while I was trying to figure out the trunk buttons, I noticed my sun roof slightly open along with all my windows?? Anyone experience this? I'm bringing my car to an acura dealer tomorrow to see what's going on but wanted to have an idea of what's going on before hand. I hope this isn't a sign of issues to come. Also is this an item covered under warranty.? I still have some factory warranty left.
I watched a recent episode of Scotty Kilmer where he really sang songs for ILX. (Almost look like Honda has replaced Toyota as his official sponsor!) But ILX is too small for me. So I am looking at TLX now. I also watched some YouTube videos on 4WS Prelude and got jealous. So I am wondering is there a 4 cylinder TLX just like the old Prelude? Anyone had both and can compare? Also what is the long run reliability of the 4cyl TLX? Thanks!
Hello friends, first of all I am new here.. posting something for the firts time.
So, I have 07 tl type s. After driving it for a few kms, or u can say once the engine is heated up.. and when I stop at the traffic lights or at the stop sign, keeping in drive, the car tends to move even when the brakes r applied. The rpms go done and the engine knocks. Its like u release the clutch and apply brakes at the same time. Its worse when shifted in reverse. The engine sounds like its about to stall. No check engine light or anything. Personally I feel like the torque converter is getting locked up.
If anyone had the same problem and got it fixed please let me know what was the fault.
Thanks.
Hey guys new to this website but have been reading these forums pretty much everyday since I bought my 05. Went to the dealer today and got my 3rd gear pressure switch replaced after a code was pulled due to flashing d light. Dealer replaced the switch and the tranny fluid. He insisted the 4th switch shouldnt be replaced as no codes were pulled for it. Should I go back and still get it replaced? Mileage is at 130k and I really want this car to last a long time
Guys,
I know this is beaten to death topic, but my '12 SH-AWD took a pretty bad hit in the rear and was in the shop for a month. I have it back now, was told no frame damage, but I question if I should jack it up by the rear tow hook now to slide the jack stands in front of the rear wheels. I have been told it 'should be' okay, but was just curious if I can avoid that area.
Rather than using the tow hitch or sides and trying to squeeze in the jack stands, does anyone use anything else under the car (Diff?) to jack it up safely/easily. Is there a cross member that people use? If so, a pic would be great.
I'm always a reader and never a poster but I need help to buy a new exhaust system for my 03 type-s.
And I want to make sure the base and type s rear mufflers fit the same because the part numbers are different.
For example the R. Side is..
Base: 18030-S0K-A01
Type-s: 18030-S0K-A20
