I have an 01 CL type s with about 171k miles and am considering a transmission fluid change. It's currently shifting pretty smooth between gears and don't have any issues but the first shift is sometimes felt between 1st and 2nd. Not sure when it was last changed since I purchased it at 138k miles. I've heard that changing fluid can cause issues after if it's been too long as I might be better leaving it.
Any thoughts? Should I change it?
BTW I've checked fluid and it still seems pretty red/clean on the dipstick.
bought a 19 genesis g70 2.0 turned out to be a terrible experience and they car was a 🍋.
Yesterday I got a smoking deal on an MDX. Anyways I knew going into it my escort max was going to go nuts in it.
What radar detector can can I use in this car thats not going to go crazy with k band (some cops run k in Illinois so turning it off is not an option)
so far what ive gathered is the
rodenseo pro m is the only one I think is safe but there has to be more.
These bumper plugs will fit only TL model years 2004 thru 2008.
Our friendly Acura dealer has these priced at $116 each!! I found em discounted for $80.91 each. I put em in & then took em out after 8 miles as I decided to replace the bumper cover entirely.
I have three "Home" entries, all pointing to the same address. I did the prescribed method for deletion of the unwanted favorites - hold for a few seconds, and then click remove. Just does not work. Did the navigation reset - that did not work either.
Any suggestions? Thanks.
I have a 2012 TL SH-AWD and the blower motor randomly stopped working. I checked the fuses then replaced the motor. Nothing. I replaced the Resistor. Nothing. While talking to someone about it they asked if my compressor clutch was turning on. It had never occurred to me to check that because it was my fan that stopped working. I look down in the engine bay and what do you know, the compressor wasn't working. I replaced that relay and now all is well. It just seemed very strange to me.
Hello All,
I am proud to be the new owner of my first Acura, a 2008 TL with A-Spec. So far I am absolutely loving driving it. I look forward to learning as much as I can so that I can keep this beast running for a long time!
I have a 2004 Acura TL and yesterday the check engine light came on and I took it to oreillys to get checked, they told me its reading codes p0430, 6-1, 23-1, 61-1, 83-1, & 86-1, and after he read those my battery died so I bought a new battery and it started right up but now my VSA light & Warning symbol wont turn off even when I push the VSA off button, help would be much appreciated.
Hey guys, I am looking at an Acura TL 2007 109k milles via private sale. The seller agreed to bring the car to Acura Dealership for a pre purchase inspection.
The following recommendations are listed below:
Front / Side motor mounts broke
T-beltt + water pump
Both valve covers leaking
power steering pump leaking
intake boot broken (this seems to be a minor issue I believe)
comp bushing torn
oil pump leaking
trans cooler lines leaking
outer tie rod ends boots leaking
catshield half missing (also seems odd)
Trans service
The car is very clean inside and out but im worried about these repairs.
Should I run away from this deal (5k) are the future repairs needed not even worth it?
or should I stick it out and try and renegotiate. How much will these repairs end up costing me?
I thought I followed the instructions in the factory manual. The timing marks on the cams and the crankshaft line up perfectly but when I reassembled everything and started the engine, it sounds bad.
Video below:
I have an 05 TL and owned it for around 2 and a half years. I'm the second owner and the car has 182k miles. I've never had any issues with the car until now. So basically what's happening is that my A/C is blowing hot air. I realized this when driving home from work one day. The next day early in the morning when it was cooler and I started the car and turned on the A/C it was ice cold and after driving for 10 minutes it went hot again. I've taken it to 2 mechanics to get it checked out. The first one said that it's not a coolant issue because according to them my tank is full and they said I need a new compressor and quoted me $975 for the job. The second mechanic said something along the lines of my tank being able to hold 19 (some unit) and my car currently had 8 (some unit) which contradicts what the first mechanic said. The second mechanic flushed my system and added more coolant and that didn't seem to fix the problem so he didn't charge me for anything. Has anyone had a similar problem or has any pointers on all the possible other parts that could be the issue before I go out and spend that much money to get the compressor replaced.
links to parts and pricing would be very helpful.
P.S first time posting here and sorry if I added too many details if not useless details, just want to be as specific as possible.
My 08 TL has been dying for the last couple of days. I thought it was because I wasn't starting it for 4 or 5 days, but I went out today and tried to start it and nothing. No lights on the dash, battery was completely dead. Jump started the car, leet it charge a little, then shut the car off, disconnected negative terminal and checked how much current was being drawn. It was cycling between 1.3-1.4 amps to about 0.300 amps. I tried disconnecting the bluetooth module, the garage buttons, everything in that overhead unit and I disconnected the AC relay (I think it was the AC relay) and it was still drawing the same amount of power.
Does anyone have suggestions as to what could be the issue before I pull fuses? I did hear some clicking under the hood after I turned the car off.
Other than the fuses located next to the strut bar on the driver side, and in the dash, are there any other fuses or relays that need to be checked?
I just picked up a 2007 NBP TL-S with 82K on the odometer. I traded in my 08 TSX with 112K on it for the TL-S. The biggest reason for the switch was the need to have 3 baby seats in the back, which did not work out in the TSX. They barely fit in the TL-S but, they are all in and using latch, so we are happy! :)
This car is mechanically in great shape and cosmetically not as good as other used cars I have owned. I am hoping to drive it for several years. It drives well, I feel. But, this is the first TL I have owned and do not have anything to compare it to. Power difference is clearly noticeable, the engine is much smoother and the 3.5L V6 has that glorious sound that I have loved for a long time!
The dealership I purchased it from is owned by a friend. They did new plugs, cabin and intake filter, serpentine belt, timing belt and water pump on it given its age. They said it needed nothing else at this time.
Is there common wear and tear items I should be checking out or be concerned about? I am in the snow belt, so are there common rust areas? I just want to make sure its reliable, safe and wont leave us stranded on the roadside.
I will probably be asking several dumb questions and hoping to learn as much as I can about this car.
In Dec 2018 I semi-impulsively purchased my TL-S with 117k miles on it and some known issues that allowed me to talk to price down considerably (and the fact that I already had a car which meant i had nothing to lose walking away). This example was a no-option model that had neither the backup sensors nor any A-spec parts installed. The car was at a pivotal point in its life where the next owner would either juice the last remaining iota of value out of the thing and discard its lifeless carcass in a junkyard somewhere, or some poor sucker like me would dump some cash in and revitalize the most driver oriented sedan ever offered by Honda in the US. Lucky for this example, I love Japanese 'sports' sedans and seeing cars returned to their factory specs. The only mods done have been a resonator delete (cannot recommend enough) and a custom center armrest cover. Finished (for now) product
This example had a host of high speed vibration issues and a P0171 code (too lean in bank 1) on first encounter. In addition, the second owner had resprayed the bumper cover, hood, and front fenders RIGHT OVER the factory clearcoat (grr- i hope i never meet the person who did this) and plasti-dipped the grill which was now flaking as well. I bet it all looked great for the first 18 months... but by the time I laid eyes on it, the paint was egg shell peeling and chipping at every touch. Of course. all four wheels also had curb rash, so i elected to get them refinished in their factory color as I find the TL-S wheels are so essential to the overall look of the car that I had to have them back to stock. The only reason I walked away with this car was receiving a positive mechanical PPI from a trusted mechanic and an estimate from my paint shop that fell in line with what i wanted to spend.
Look at that toothy grin... a face not even a mother could love.
The mechanical maladies proved largely benign as promised by my shop. The high speed vibrations turned out to be sidewall bubbles on two of the brand new Toyo Proxy 4s (which they would NOT warranty- never will buy again) combined with a very slightly bent rim in the front drivers side wheel. This was solved with a brand new set of 4 Conti DWS extreme contacts and moving the bent rim to the rear axle while I source an OEM replacement. The P0171 turned out to be a nothingburger too- as i had the car at the shop twice for A/F ratio testing which turned out completely normal both times. There were no performance issues noted and the car idled fine. The light was fixed by a new fuel cap and a re-flash, and the car has now been CEL-free for over 2.5k miles. The car is mechanically flawless and recently drove 600 miles round trip in less than 24 hours with nothing but smiles and highway pulls (and one very angry new GTI owner who needs to pay more attention to other cars badging before trying to pull on people :^)
extreme paint chipping and peeling due to 2nd owner respraying DIRECTLY OVER the factory clearcoat
Plans for the car include a roof rack for ski season, further paint correction and swirl removal, some interior reconditioning, fresh tints, and eventually A spec suspension. I am currently in the greater Fairfield County area, so if you see me feel free to say hello!
So it's been a while since I last posted in here. I did a search but didn't really find anything helpful so now I'm in need of some assistance. I have a 2000 TL that has uneven air flow coming from the vents. My driver side vent by the door is blowing normal while the remaining vents seem to be only blowing at 60-70% compared to my driver one. I find this pretty odd since the vent farthest from the blower motor is working the best. I'm gonna change the cabin filter just because I haven't done so in a long time but I doubt it's gonna change anything since the one vent blows fine. Has anybody else had this problem?
One other thing is I'm getting a little bit of air in the footwell area while running my AC. Is this possibly a blend door/motor problem?
Hello...and thanks in advance for any help. I have a 2015 TLX v6. I recently changed oil at independent garage (i.e. not dealer!) and wanted to reset my oil life indicator/maintenance minder. I went under "Vehicle Settings" to look for "Maintenance Info" to do the reset but it was MISSING!! I followed these directions:
Turn the ignition key to position ON without starting the engine, If your Acura TLX has Smart key button, press the Start button twice without touching the brake pedal.
Press the Settings buttons located on the audio/information screen
Select the Vehicle Settings, and then press the Enter button
Scroll down and select Maintenance Info
Next, select Reset and then press the ENTER button
Confirm the question by select Reset again and press Enter button
Turn the ignition off and then start the engine to verify the indicator has been reset
Of note that the car is in Latin America and was never sold in USA market. Is it possible for dealer to "lock" this setting thus forcing one to go to dealer for oil change? There is no dealer near me so really can't go anyhow. Called Acura USA and they said call a dealer. Called a dealer in Dallas and they had no idea. Any ideas here? Thanks!
I have a 2015 Acura with 81000 miles. It sometimes cranks strong and starts immediately. Sometimes it cranks weak and then starts. In two occasions it didnt start but jump started easily. I took it to Autozone and they tested the alternator and battery and both were fine. I took it to my mechanic and he said they were fine as well. I purchased a small jumpstart kit just in case. Any advice? I know the starter could be the issue but my mechanic doesnt think so.
Need some advice on resolving A.C. clutch hub problem... hub nonmetallic joint melted allowing hub to engage drive pulley but it is no longer connected to A.C. compressor shaft so NO Air Conditioning. Before this event, never ever had an A.C. problem.... Replaced hub, checked A.C. shaft it turned easy, bearing seemed smooth and stable, regapped to .4mm, reassembled, clutch pulled in and dropped out as designed, no squeals, no spinning... A.C. worked again, checked gas pressure it was good (in green), But 17hrs later, hub melted again. A.C. was actually too cold when it was working. Any, any experience/advice with resolving this problem would be appreciated! Have been browsing forums and cannot find mention of similar problem. Thanks.
