First Windshield was replaced at 2000 miles. Rock hit near rear-view mirror causing 7 inch crack.
Second Windshield is now being replaced (5000 miles). This time however, I believe the rock came from an over pass. The impact sound was much louder (larger rock) and there was no one in front of us at the time. We just were coming out from under an overpass and... boom. Immediate 4 inch crack that slowly expanded. When I got out of the car, I saw the impact. Notice it also hit the A Pillar. Minor damage, but will require repair.
RDX is at the body shop now and hoping to get it back by Friday.
Is there any way to confirm VTEC in engaging? Since having the transmission replaced I'm not feeling any kick when I think it should be coming on and now I hear a "wooshing" sound I don't remember.
Did a search and did not find a thread on this topic so.........I'm having a heck of a time cleaning the inside of the windshield. I've dealt with plastic interior out gassing before but this is a whole new level of a greasy residue that is very difficult to get off even with alcohol and clean micro fiber cloths. Anyone else with this issue and how do you clean the inside of your windshield?
Getting ready to change out and flush the coolant system. Anyone here using Water Wetter ? Thinking about adding the stuff. Have used it for years in my other cars with no problems,,just thought I'd ask here though.
Hey guys hows it going. I have a 2010 acura tl and have an issue with the doors. All the doors lock and unlock except the driver door. I'm guessing the actuator went on the drivers door? Can someone please help me. Thank you for your time
I was hoping some of ya'll could help me out something. I noticed that my steering wheel will turn more to the left than the right. Not by too much, but noticeable difference.
I had my steering rack replaced about 2 months ago, the thing is I don't recall if this difference in cracking to the left or right has always existed. So, I'm trying to figure out if maybe that was the case.
An alignment was done after the steering rack was done and again just had another alignment today. The rack is also an OEM rebuild.
Was hoping some of ya'll can have a look next time you are in your car and let me know!
Selling a 2006 Acura TL that has been in a front collision with another car at around 35-40mph.
The car was totaled by the insurance company, but I kept it as you can see below it still has some good value in the car. Surprisingly it still starts and runs fine, but the radiator was damaged so it cannot run for long.
Besides the significant front end damage it is in good condition (just detailed before the accident) and I would still be driving it if not for the accident as it's a great all around car with good power, surprisingly good gas mileage (up to 30mpg/highway), and a solid amount of space for passengers and cargo alike.
If you have the know-how, tools, and materials to fix the car it would be a great opportunity or if you need some quality parts it would work for that too.
Exterior: navy blue
Interior: tan leather
Transmission: automatic
Current: 197,401 miles
April 2017: Transmission completely rebuilt at professional transmission shop Mileage: 187,313 10,088 miles since
Tires: 196,569 - Costco - 6.26.18 832 miles since
Potenza RE980 Ultra High Performance Nitrogen inflated 50,000 Mile warranty
Brakes: 196,412 - 6.13.18 - Rear pads, rotors, calipers, hoses 989 miles since
Hey guys . So I decided to take down some stupid monitor the previous owner installed in my TL to play PlayStation on.. Smh. Now I bout a light to replace it in the domelight spot only to find the threaded stud like grounding point for the switch ON position broken to where it can't even come through assembly.
Is it possible to remove those studs and if so how? Thanks
I've been looking everywhere on the net to if anyone has done the swap from the OEM projector to the 4TLr? Has anyone here upgraded their projector to the 4TLr?
So I recently purchased a 2007 Acura TL type s and the woman I bought it from really screwed up the wheels. I went to my dealer and picked up some anthracite metallic touch up paint and it worked really well. When doing this I suggest that you dont use the clear. I used the clear on one of the sections and its too shiny and makes it more noticeable. Also sand down the section and clean it with rubbing alcohol. It looks better in person than on camera and you dont notice it from above. Thats with the clear Thats without clear
So here it goes. Just purchased an 05 RL with 200k miles. The price and service history enticed me enough to make the move. Its been through 3 timing belts/water pumps, few brake jobs and routine maint. stuff at a local honda dealer so i was convinced after getting the party down to $2,500. All great stuff.
Day 1, the trans fluid was very dark in color. I didnt like it so went and picked up some Honda ATF at a local dealer. Brought it home and replaced it for the first time. Not a flush through the cooling lines, just a regular drain and fill. Took a little over 3 quarts or so and about 30 minutes of my time. Plan was to cycle this over the course of the next 6 months or so. Synth engine oil changed myself during the same time though I dont see anything engine can be related to this issue.
2nd day into the ownership, im driving home from work commute ~ 60 miles or so one way and nearby my house the speedo stops working. Then the check emissions message invokes followed by a CEL and then the VSA light. Onboard system conveys a P0741 message. Checked my fluid level and normal temp and its right where it needs to be (just below the top dot of the dip).
Shes shifting all over the place looking for gears, loud thumps at times (especially around turns), and no speedo. Cluster is lit up like a Christmas tree. Ive done a little research and something tells me i should brace myself for a major expense right away. Im pretty mechanically inclined and own an NA1 NSX as well. Irrelevant to this but point is I miss my manual gear box now :)
Any recommendations/advise is welcome from similar use cases/RCA's. Thank you in advance. Im new here so eventually ill get to creating my profile completely.
So m1 is pretty much useless? I can only put it in m1 if im at a dead stop and even then it changes to m2 immediately.
Theres a dude on instagram who has videos of him dropping it from m2 to m1 on the regular and flooring it. I know his is not 2012 cuz of the front grill.
So a few weeks ago I picked up a filthy WDP 08 S with 154k on the clock. Drove it for about a week with a floppy as pedal and no CEL or other code issues. So I decided a week later to adjust the Throttle/Pedal position cable to the APP sensor to fix the slack and tighten up the feel on my gas pedal. 2 things happened. Immediately no more slack and two days after I had to take a road trip 450 miles one way. I noticed that at cruising with me on the gas pedal the car felt like I was driving in a wind storm. I really did look up to the trees to see if they were blowing hard but nope. Sunny day with little to no breeze. However, unbeknownst to me when I was in Cruise Control the feeling went away and the car drove smooth without that feeling of hesitation and intermittent power loss. Needless to say I stayed on CC as much as I could. Did some research and ordered a cheap ebay App sensor :blink:, but not before experiencing LIMP MODE 3x for the first time ever. I would drive and come on and off the gas on purpose to avoid it in city driving but if traffic was too tight i couldn't avoid it. Cheap app sensor arrives and here we go!
1. Swap out old sensor
2. install new and fire up engine and nothing, no throttle response just an idling engine
3 CEL VSA! immediately come on (never both before) i turn off car
4. adjust throttle cable, turn on car (NOTHING) CEL/VSA!
5. Re-install old App, start car, NOTHING, CEL/VSA! no response
6. Scream WTF and stare at 2 piece of shit APP sensors
7. I repeat this all 5x's smh-Super Limp Mode
8. i Say fuck it, I'll do this one more time and re-install old app sensor, so i do. Now I only have CEL but the VSA! is gone and I no have some throttle response. Car was idling at 1000/rpm which was high but at this point but the sun had gone down and i was just happy I could drive the car. Next day I adjusted throttle to reflect about 7k rpm after about 30 seconds from cold start.
I've driven car for over a week, CEL has gone away, no more hesitation on regular hwy driving without Cruise Control, no more city driving limp mode.
It appears there was wasn't an app sensor issue all along but the throttle position cable was just off. I had never experienced this limp mode before even on my TL's with 245k miles.
Hi ladies and gents. I know we talk lot about putting a ton of miles on our cars, but I was curious about age and thought it would be a good idea to have a 20 year check-in for the 99 owners.
Would like to see how many of you are still out there and how your cars are doing? You can post whatever you like here; be proud that you've kept your Acura going for as long as it has!
I am just about at 2000 miles. Averaging 22.3 mpg, although I don't get to drive on the highway much. I did a short trip to Chattanooga last month and measured 70 mile highway only run at 29.9 mpg.
I have used both 87 and 93 top-tier gas and don't notice any difference between the 2 in either mileage or performance.
I had a few infotainment issues early on but none recently.
My 2019 RDX Tech AWD has a build date of April 2019.
The more I drive it, the more I like it.
Great car, no complaints at present.
