Okay so I bought the car from the dealership 4 days ago and the navigation system asked for the 4 digit code. I enter the code and it goes through the whole reboot system and the navigation map shows up, but when I turn the car back on it ask for the code again. Can anyone help me out?
I have a base 2005 tl. I just changed an old alpine head unit I had for new updated one. Every thing went smoothly until I plugged in the harness for the hazard lights button. Once I plugged it in I noticed my cluster lost power. I thought it was probably a fuse but all of them are good. When I went to close the windows they won't go up. Everything else seems to be working in the car (interior lights, radio, etc.)
Any help is greatly appreciated.
Picks go here. Reminder, pick both one driver and one team for the race. You can only pick each driver four times and each team four times the whole season.
Picks close at Saturday, 9 am EST August 3rd, or prior to the start of qualifying, whichever comes first.
Only picks places in the thread will count.
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Driver Limits Reached:
00TL-P3.2 - Hamilton
F-C - Hamilton
Chief F1 Fan - Leclerc, Vettel
cu2wagon - Kubica
fsttyms1 - Hamilton, Vettel
nanxun - Hamilton
TommySalami - Hamilton
West6MT - Ferrari
00TL-P3.2 - Mercedes, Ferrari
F-C - Ferrari, Mercedes
icy2 - Ferrari
Chief F1 Fan - Ferrari, Mercedes
cu2Wagon - Haas
fsttyms1 - Mercedes
nanxun - Mercedes, Ferrari
TommySalami - Mercedes, Ferrari
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I recently purchased a tl type s with 158,000 miles. Everything on the car is great except the fact that the check engine light is on. We got the codes and realized that cylinder 4 and 5 are misfiring. One would assume that this could be caused by a simple non functioning plug or coil but no. After further evaluation we determined that it is not plugs, coils, or egr ports. The plugs on 4 and 5 both become fouled within 30 min of being installed. 2 shops have told us that it is most likely a piston or ring. I just need a second opinion because I have talked to someone that has had a similar issue which ended up being a flooded ecu. I don't want to end up pulling apart an engine if there is a much simpler solution. Important details: the upper intake manifold has been opened and had ports cleaned and is missing a gasket, the head has been opened in the past by someone and resealed with red silicone, coil on 4 is aftermarket and has been changed, all plugs have been replaced and coils have been switched, slight tick from misfiring.
If anyone has had this same issue or has useful knowledge and could help me out that would be great. Thanks.
Emission system problem light came on and my RDX wouldnt pick up speed past 40 mph...local mechanic assessed rocker arm needs replaced/repaired...said oil looks good... 2016 RDX only has 79k miles...any others have this Issue? Mechanic said only Acura dealer can repair
I got in my 2010 RDX the other day, and all the warning lights went off in a series. Check brake system, check transmission, check emissions system, check VSA systems, check TPMS system...all went off one after the other and cycled. Then the speedometer needle flipped back and forth while driving, then the AC stopped running cold. Then the key wouldn't come out of the ignition.
I brought it to Firestone, and they said it's the ignition cylinder. They said all the warning lights going off was a coincidence. I highly doubt that... They cleared the codes and got the warning lights to stop, and they're replacing the ignition cylinder. The part costs $430, and they're not able to tell me if the AC will work afterwards. Has anyone else had this issue or know anything about it?
We take a seat in Yorkshires new 200mph supercar to hear from the man in charge
Practicality isnt exactly the first thing that comes to mind when looking at Ginettas new 200mph shark-inspired supercar, Akula. There are too many slats. Too much LMP1-inspired aero. And a hulking great 600bhp, front mid-engined V8 to tickle your intrigue first. But the 675-litres of commodious boot space is exactly what Ginettas boss Lawrence Tomlinson wants to talk about first.
You wont believe the size of the boot, he says with a very matter-of-fact northern twang. This is very much a road car and we want it to be used. I dont know about you, but if I go away in my car I tend to take things with me; my wifes going to want to take a bag, Ill probably take some golf clubs, and depending on your sporting intentions you might want to take some shooting sticks. But you want to be able to use the car. Thats why weve made it easier to get in and out of. Why theres loads of headroom. Why its happy doing long distances.
Hes not wrong. The cabin is strangely Tardis-like. You sit low in fixed seats moulded into the carbon tub, and even with the engine set so far back its basically in your lap, its far airier and more spacious than, say, an AMG GT-R that has a similar bulky transmission tunnel dividing driver and passenger. But putting the homebrew 600bhp and 516lb ft naturally aspirated V8 engine in the front (but as far back as possible) of an intimating sledgehammer wasnt dictated because of a need to pick up a couple of slabs of compost and the weekly shop on the way back from a booze cruise in Calais. It also wasnt because Lawrence used to race a front-engined race car (a Panoz Esperante GT-LM) at Le Mans. Its because he used to import boats.
The layout had nothing to do with things Ive driven before actually. Its just physics. I used to import Mastercraft ski boats. Theyve all got a massive V8 sat right in the middle of the boat so the centre of mass is right there, low down. So when youre cornering in a lake, it just spins on an axis whereas an outboard boat would just capsize. Thats why the engine is in the middle (albeit in the front) of the Akula, its just the principles of putting the weight where it wants to be inside the axles. Then you just build the aero around it.
And its hard to argue with Ginettas technical nous when it comes to knowing how to manipulate the air to make cars go fast. Theyre present in pretty much every endurance racing class, have Ginetta Juniors (the Formula stepping stone that helped Lando Norris get a seat with McLaren) and LMP1 race cars at Le Mans. And the Akula has had this accumulation of knowledge siphoned into it. Its LMP3 racer-spec aerodynamics add up to a claim of 376kg of downforce at just 100mph, which Ginetta says is only 5 per cent less than an actual LMP3 racer. But, in a sly dig at the likes of McLaren and Ferrari, the company points out theres no active trick aero on the car the 376kg is generated the old-school way. Massive vanes, big wings, and no complicated flappy bits.
Even though he very much sees it as a road car (saying that, not many dedicated road cars also have a full FIA-spec roll cage and safety cells), being 200kg lighter and many hundreds of thousands of pounds cheaper than a McLaren Senna, plus having more aero and a power-to-weight figure well over 500bhp per tonne, if you dropped it to the floor and went for it Lawrence reckons the results could be more than interesting. But why bother going to all the effort of milling your own aluminium dry-sumped, naturally aspirated V8 from billet aluminium? Why develop your own six-speed sequential paddle-shift gearbox with the diff connected to the engine (and multi-plate clutch) by a short carbon fibre shaft? It all sounds rather complicated and expensive for a small outfit from Yorkshire, doesnt it?
Because we can, Lawrence says staunchly. I just wanted to do one really, and thought why not.
With its British bulldog-esque muscular proportions, short wheelbase and big V8, it all feels very TVR. Dare we say it, more TVR than the new TVR. Which is quite interesting, considering Lawrence tried but failed to buy TVR when Russian mini-oligarch Nikolai Smolenski rocked up and snatched the keys to Blackpools iconic car company.
The Akula is very British, Lawrence says obviously forgetting that hes plumped for a Russian name for the car. Its not a million miles away from a TVR. I mean that as in you look at what Peter Wheeler did with the Sagaris the axe car and its quite similar. The Sagaris is now seen as an iconic car and shape, and this [the Akula] is the kind of car Id have done if I was there.
But Lawrence also positions the Akula and its mentality somewhere a bit more, er, Italian.
I see the Akula and our road car projects a bit like a British Pagani, he says. When Horacio first did the Zonda he was relatively unknown and selling them for £200k. They were new, bold and works of art. We want to do limited runs 20 cars a year and make it an experience and personal. We want people to enjoy the brand and our racing. We fit the seats to the individual and you can have whatever you want on it. Somebody wants, say, a red one with red carbon and exposed weaves we can do that. And were not looking to take tens of thousands of pounds off people for extras because youve pretty much got everything in it you want. Its not all about money. Its about creating something that people love and want to have not simply sticking it in a collection and not using it. I dont want to go on about boot space forever. But you know, Im anal about practicalities. If you cant get in and out of it, if its f***ing uncomfortable to sit in, feels cramped and I cant see f*** all or park it, you wont use it. And this is made to be used.
Well, at £400k youd like to get your moneys worth and use it. And the first run of 20 have already been accounted for so people are keen to do so. But for now, we just want to drive it. Which we should do by the end of the year. A first drive in a 600bhp, front-mid-engined, rear-wheel-drive car in the middle of a British winter? That sounds suitably British to us. And dont worry, well check out the boot space.
I've bought the extended warranty on my 2019 RDX. (No comments on the decision please.)
The contract requires the oil be changed every 5000 miles.
I have done most of the maintenance on my cars for years, including complete overhauls, clutch or pretty much anything that's been required.
Can I change the oil myself and keep the receipts, or am I required to have it changed commercially? It would probably have to be done at a Honda dealership (30 mi.), the nearest Acura service is over 100 miles away.
I am selling a set of Acura TL base OEM struts that were removed from my 2005 Acura TL after I installed Tein Streed Advance Z coilovers. The struts were removed around 135,000 miles and I did not have any issues with them prior to disassembly.
The price reflected includes the pre-assembled OEM top hats, but does not include shipping. Shipping quotes can be provided upon request for serious buyers.
I am selling my 2005 Acura TL base side skirts, which are painted in OEM Nighthawk Black Pearl paint. These were removed form my 2005 Acura TL around 135,000 miles after I installed an A-Spec lip kit.
At this time, I am not looking to separate the set. However, please let me know if you only need the fronts or rears and we may be able to work something out.
Shipping is not included in the listed price. However, quotes can be provided upon request for serious buyers.
I know that this topic's been discussed a lot, but I would love to get some input. I recently replaced my rear rotors & pads and noticed that my parking brake shoes looked very worn down. The parking brake still works but to me it looks like it's time to retire these and get new parking brake shoes. Unfortunately I didn't take any pictures but I'm pretty sure they're the original parking brake shoes ('05 6spd sitting at ~231,000 miles).
I remember reading that parking brake shoes generally don't get replaced just because daily application is used to prevent the car from moving/rolling, not stopping/slowing down the car. Makes sense and I would agree but these threads are relatively old. Don't know why changing/inspecting the parking brake shoes never crossed my mind before while I had the rotors off, but here I am now lol.
I don't know if I should get them replaced or if I should ride it out until I need to. I know not having pictures makes it hard to give me advice, but if you were in my scenario, would you change the parking brake shoes because they've never been changed or just keep using the old ones until you have to replace them?
Disclaimer 1 - I apologize for the shakiness of the video as I suffer from Parkinsons Disease
Disclaimer 2 - I apologize for my ugly mug reflecting off the display so you have been warned
My 2010 TSX navigation system has been acting up. It will not save the settings like the volume settings and voice controls and resets each time I start the car although the key is linked (I get the driver 1 or 2 welcome on the MID). In addition, I have various errors when I run the diagnostics. I attached a picture of one of the errors where it shows a serial number error? I bought a new white DVD last year in hope of fixing this issue but all it did was update the maps slightly. It also appears it is running an old interface maybe from the previous gen TSX as the interface does not look like the original interface when I bought the car. For some reason I think it reverted back and was wondering if I bought a used DVD trunk unit from ebay would this fix these issues? Here is the firm ware version number also. Any help would be appreciated.
I am submitting this thread because the level you see in this photo is how the transmission fluid always reads - when checking it the correct way as stated by the owners manual, when the car is cold, etc. The fluid always reads (since purchased in Feb '19) per where my finger is pointing - a little above the 2nd circle - I just want to make sure it is ok for it to be a little above the 2nd circle as opposed to being below the first circle. I know it is ideal for the fluid to read between the two circles
This Monday, I am bringing in the vehicle for a fix of its power steering leak (I have been continuously adding genuine Honda power steering fluid per owners manual instructions) as well as to see if the A/C is completely out of refrigerant. I regularly check my other levels and I notice the coolant fluid fluctuates right at the min level and then aboult halfway between min and max - I got a coolant flush and refill back in Feb - never had the temperature gauge ever reach past the halfway point, so I am wondering the best way to check the coolant reservoir - when the car is cold or hot? Maybe unlevel ground is affecting the level readings?
Hi all, Im having some issues with my 06 TL. Its making loud squeaking noises when I accelerate (especially abruptly), brake (not as bad but still there, also still there when in neutral and braking from moving), and goes over bumps (really bad when the car hasnt warmed up yet).
Mechanic told me earlier that this was the control arms, but I just wanted to confirm before I order in the parts. Im not super knowledgeable about cars but Im pretty comfortable with tools so Id like to take this on myself.
Hello all. I have a 2004 RL with a faulty clock spring/cable reel; all the culprits, no steering wheel controls/horn and airbag light on the cluster. Started out intermittent but now only can get the horn to sound when steering wheel fully turned to right.
Have done some research and I'm sure I could replace it myself but can't find a replacement anywhere, "discontinued."
Got the part # from the dealer using my VIN, 77900-SZ3-A81. Turns out a different part in '03 & '04 (electric steering wheel controls) and different w/ Navigation.
My question is would any other units fit (ex. non-Navi) don't use outdated Navi and can live without radio controls, just want my horn and airbags functional.
Thanks for any thoughts in advance.
