So yesterday AM, my car didn't start. I had noticed a faint whining noise from the engine compartment for the few days prior. Also, my airbag light was flickering on/off, particularly at low rpm.
Boosted the car and checked voltage -- 11.70vdc --> bad alternator.
Picked up a remanufactured AC Delco the same day and got to work swapping it in the same evening.
I've read many threads here and elsewhere saying that the alternator is a real pain to change, and to expect 2-3 hours of time or more. PITA lower mounting bolts, etc etc etc...
Well, maybe I was just real lucky, but I found this R&R to be real straightforward and simple and am sharing some tips to make your life easier should you ever be faced with this repair.
(Sorry, no pictures)
I've bolded the steps I found worked easier for me than most accounts from others online.
Steps:
1. Disconnect battery + and - cables. (Don't forget to have your radio code handy for later...)
2. Remove radiator overflow reservoir (2 10mm bolts). Just tuck it out of the way - no need to spill any antifreeze.
3. Remove radiator fan - passenger side (2 10mm bolts, 2 electrical clips)
4. Lift up on the power steering reservoir and tuck it closer to the headlight / washer fluid neck. (no bolts/clips)
5. Use the special Honda tensioner pulley tool, or a double-wrench method to remove tension on the drive/accessory belt, and remove the belt from the power steering pump pulley.
6. Use a 3/8" drive, 12mm deep socket and remove the lower mounting bolts. I've heard of people using u-joints, swivel sockets, or 1/2" drive with extensions... there's no need as the standard 3/8" drive, 12mm deep socket gives the perfect length without being too 'fat' to fit between the AC lines.
7. Use the same 3/8" drive, 12mm deep socket to partially remove the upper mounting bolt. This one is LONG but only threaded about 3/4 of an inch. Careful - don't remove it fully at this time.
8. Use a 1/4" drive, 10mm socket to remove the B+ terminal on the alternator, now that the alternator is slightly clear of the intake manifold. Don't try using a wrench on this as it's a real soft nut and you'll round it off. Wait to remove this until this exact step!
9. Remove the green plug from alternator, and tuck the wires for this plug and the B+ terminal off to the side.
10. Fully remove the 12mm upper mounting bolt - careful, as the alternator will drop if you're not holding it!
11. Rotate the alternator 90 degrees so the pulley is facing down. You can then work it between the IM and the radiator - remember, that fan is removed so there's plenty of room!
12. (Optional): I have UR aluminum pulleys, so I swapped my pulley to the new alternator
13. Swap the metal bracket from old alternator to new one - this is the receptacle for the wire harness clip. 8mm socket.
14. Install in the reverse order of removal. Key notes are to secure the upper bolt only loosely FIRST, then attach the B+ ring terminal, then feed the 2 lower mounting bolts in and torque down snug, then re-attach the green plug to new alternator. Then torque the upper bolt snug.
It took me about an hour to do everything, but add a half hour because I was a bit of a moron and somehow used my ratchet/socket to relieve pressure on the tensioner pulley and it got completely jammed between the pulley and the side motor mount! DOH.
Compared to changing the starter, the alternator was an absolute piece of cake!
I hope this is useful to you guys and gals here!
Boosted the car and checked voltage -- 11.70vdc --> bad alternator.
Picked up a remanufactured AC Delco the same day and got to work swapping it in the same evening.
I've read many threads here and elsewhere saying that the alternator is a real pain to change, and to expect 2-3 hours of time or more. PITA lower mounting bolts, etc etc etc...
Well, maybe I was just real lucky, but I found this R&R to be real straightforward and simple and am sharing some tips to make your life easier should you ever be faced with this repair.
(Sorry, no pictures)
I've bolded the steps I found worked easier for me than most accounts from others online.
Steps:
1. Disconnect battery + and - cables. (Don't forget to have your radio code handy for later...)
2. Remove radiator overflow reservoir (2 10mm bolts). Just tuck it out of the way - no need to spill any antifreeze.
3. Remove radiator fan - passenger side (2 10mm bolts, 2 electrical clips)
4. Lift up on the power steering reservoir and tuck it closer to the headlight / washer fluid neck. (no bolts/clips)
5. Use the special Honda tensioner pulley tool, or a double-wrench method to remove tension on the drive/accessory belt, and remove the belt from the power steering pump pulley.
6. Use a 3/8" drive, 12mm deep socket and remove the lower mounting bolts. I've heard of people using u-joints, swivel sockets, or 1/2" drive with extensions... there's no need as the standard 3/8" drive, 12mm deep socket gives the perfect length without being too 'fat' to fit between the AC lines.
7. Use the same 3/8" drive, 12mm deep socket to partially remove the upper mounting bolt. This one is LONG but only threaded about 3/4 of an inch. Careful - don't remove it fully at this time.
8. Use a 1/4" drive, 10mm socket to remove the B+ terminal on the alternator, now that the alternator is slightly clear of the intake manifold. Don't try using a wrench on this as it's a real soft nut and you'll round it off. Wait to remove this until this exact step!
9. Remove the green plug from alternator, and tuck the wires for this plug and the B+ terminal off to the side.
10. Fully remove the 12mm upper mounting bolt - careful, as the alternator will drop if you're not holding it!
11. Rotate the alternator 90 degrees so the pulley is facing down. You can then work it between the IM and the radiator - remember, that fan is removed so there's plenty of room!
12. (Optional): I have UR aluminum pulleys, so I swapped my pulley to the new alternator
13. Swap the metal bracket from old alternator to new one - this is the receptacle for the wire harness clip. 8mm socket.
14. Install in the reverse order of removal. Key notes are to secure the upper bolt only loosely FIRST, then attach the B+ ring terminal, then feed the 2 lower mounting bolts in and torque down snug, then re-attach the green plug to new alternator. Then torque the upper bolt snug.
It took me about an hour to do everything, but add a half hour because I was a bit of a moron and somehow used my ratchet/socket to relieve pressure on the tensioner pulley and it got completely jammed between the pulley and the side motor mount! DOH.
Compared to changing the starter, the alternator was an absolute piece of cake!
I hope this is useful to you guys and gals here!