I was wondering if anyone had information of where I can purchase an audio deck so I replace my stereo. I want to sub the stock audio display with a 7" screen display but I am unable to find a place to purchase a deck first.
If anyone has found one or has any information please let me know. It is extremely hard to find this part and is it possible to even do this modification with the standard 2.0L 2015 ILX??
Hey guys I just recently picked up a 2010 TL awd in a 6spd manual transmission and while I was driving home on the freeway I was doing about 75-80 mph. So when my exit comes up I merge over the the exit lane and decided to coast in neutral so the car can slow down on its own since my brake pads arent in the best condition at the moment.
So I watch my rpms drop to about 1200 down a little past 1000 and then the car just died while rolling. I started it again while still rolling and it just dies again. So I started it again and give it some gas before it dies on me and put it in gear. Has this happened to anyone else or know what the cause is?
Id appreciate any information about the problem.
Thanks.
Im experiencing power loss between 4K RPM and 5K RPM (when VTEC kicks in) its not a super significant loss of power, however it is quite noticeable as it pulls hard up to 4K, then becomes very sluggish until VTEC kicks in. It has always pulled hard to the redline before. Does anybody have any idea what could be causing this? (No CEL coming on)
Hi I'm looking to upgrade my 2016 mdx's subwoofer(tech package with nav). Does anyone know what sub would be a direct fit and not need modification to the sub box?
In earlier conversations I've been an advocate for the Curt aftermarket hitch (both for the MDX as well as other vehicles). It did the job, had a great protective finish, and was a lot cheaper than OEM.
As most know I moved (with dealer assist) from my '17 MDX Tech lease to a '19 MDX Advance lease thanks in part to navigation issues I was having. As a part of this transition, I had the dealer remove the Curt hitch from my '17 and my intent was to bolt it up to the '19. I figured I might have to use new bolts (likely overkill) to make sure I had a secure and tight fit.
What I didn't count on was, after 2 years, how badly the Curt hitch had fared. Yeah, I live in NH and after running thru 2 winters, the hitch was exposed to a couple of seasons of salt/sand. The bolt heads were corroded as expected. But the amount of rust forming on the Curt hitch was surprising. And most surprising was the amount of rust forming UNDER the powder coat in places where there was no apparent hole thru the powder coat to let in moisture. I started using my grinding pad to cut thru the bubbled areas and the rust was spreading under the powder coat well beyond the bubbling. And we're talking all over the hitch. plus there was rust at almost every weld location. I figured I'd just scrape away any loose rust and/or coating and spray with some Eastwood Rust Encapsulator I had in stock from earlier projects - but it was much more than I anticipated.
So I'm making the decision to not use this hitch on my new '19 and will likely go for an OEM hitch setup, but not opt for the wiring loom and stick with the aftermarket Curt one that does the job (I store the pigtail in the storage area inside the rear of the MDX). Local dealer is knocking 20 percent off of list on the hitch so I get it for just over $300 - which is about double the Curt cost - but given my experience my satisfaction with aftermarket is waning.
So I'm modifying my position on the aftermarket vs OEM hitch. Not because of aesthetics, but because of quality / longevity issues. Something about bolting a rusty hitch to my new MDX just didn't sit well..... Will the OEM hitch fare better? Not sure - but will give it a shot!
Ive been doing some troubleshooting on my 07 XM reception issue and found the antenna to be bad. Does anyone know of a removal procedure for these without dropping the whole headliner?
I have done hours of research on the topic of simply mirroring my iPhone via an HDMI cable to my 2012 TL's screen (WAZE in particular). Here are my conclusions:
Purchase a NAVTOOL interface. Very hesitant to do so after hearing a mixed bag of feedback. If there were no issues I would purchase 100% (Use promo code XZDBC20055 for extra discount in cart if you are actually considering purchasing, it has been in my cart for days while I debate) I cannot justify the price without certainty of how NAVTOOL will perform. I've heard some of the reviews are fake.
Purchase a NAVTOOL competitor (Naviks) . Really does not save that much money and there are serious questions about QC.
Purchase a tablet or monitor similar to the size of the Navigation screen and mount in front of Nav screen. Not the cleanest look and I lose the backup camera but substantially cheaper and reusable. I have yet to find an exact match for the screen size but I am thinking a monitor over a tablet would be the best idea since touching a screen at that location is very awkward. I could purchase a mount that attaches to the bottom of the tablet so taking it out would be a breeze. Using the factory Navi is useless compared to Waze.
Purchase a small monitor and mount in the corner of the left windshield with an HDMI connection to iPhone. Similar concerns from option 3. Not ideal visibility
Suck it up and deal with a dumb phone mount between the navigation unit and the HVAC/Radio Controls.
I am in love with the styling and all other aspects of this car but having no clear solution to my problem is seriously hurting my love affair with my TL.
Any input or suggestions would be appreciated.
hi all new member here. i got a 2010 acura tsx. so far mods i got are tien sbz coilovers & f1r f28 wheels 18x9.5. still more mods to come!
i do got 2 aftermarket wheels i wanna sale if anyone can help me point to the right direction, that would be right!
For those with the MT - what RPMs do you usually shift at? I tried to find a recommendation, but couldn't find documentation. My other car has an "idiot light" that comes on and generally recommends 2.3k.
I've tried doing that on my TL, but the engine definitely seems happier/smoother if I go up to 3k. The engine doesn't lug per se, but it feels strained or there's a slight rumble or vibration at 2k. Maybe that's just my car? Keep in mind this is for general city driving and I'm trying to maximize fuel economy. You can of course do what works best for you!
Having just bought a 2001 CL Type S with 154000 miles, I'm into determining what needs to be done. First thing is getting rid of the SRS airbag light. I read the sticky thread on it - https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-cl-p...ension-478199/ - but am wondering if I'm going to need to hit a dealer or a mechanic. Can I just clear the code?
Plastidip emblems on TL - S. Anthracite Gray Metallic. Matches the tails and rear side markers quite well. everybody does boring ol' black - this shade of grey for a TL Type S is much much better!
Note this this is NOT the ghetto gunmetal plastidip that has no shine.. now, the TYPE S emblem is extremely difficult to do... i may touch that up at another time...
patience is key here...!!! spend a few mins to clean up the mess afterwards and she's good to go!
2011 TSX Wagon (2.4L I-4). 98k Miles. In the last 7 months she has had VTC actuator replaces, new timing chain, valve adjustment, spark plug replacement. After spark plug adjustment noticed subtle ticking when starting to accelerate. No ticking at idle. No fuel consumption or performance issues. Is not consuming oil.
Curious if it could be a bad or loud fuel injector(s). Maybe bad coil pack.
OK Have IOS 13.1 Beta 2 and GREAT NEWS. CarPlay boots ok and the touchpad is working so thats wonderful. Need to see if it fixes some of the other issues. Going for a drive in a bit to check it out....
I have noticed a brake pedal on my new 2020 MDX Hybrid. I took it into the dealer and they definitely hear the sound but they don't know if normal for a hybrid or not. The Acura dealer confirmed this noise on another brand new hybrid on the dealers lot. The non hybrids do not make this noise. I've included a video from youtube but it is not my car or even an MDX for that matter but the sound is similar.
Hello everyone I have a 1997 Acura 3.0 CL, and I finally got everything off in order to get to dropping my oil pan, and re- seal it because of a leak.
The only problem is I cannot get the oil pan to drop, I've been trying to go around the seal with razor blade, and using a piece of 2×4 with a hammer, but still no luck. this is my first time doing this and I am open to any suggestions or help of any kind, want to get my Acura going again, thank you!
BTW, would it be wise to find a gasket once I drop it, or just use all rtv sealant again ? Because when I called Napa they told me that there is no gasket available but just to make my own with the RTV sealant put on the advanced and I believe AutoZone site they are showing certain gaskets that are available for it but, some are performance ones, but the ones on Advanced website are available between 9 and 15 dollars. Or maybe do both(gasket and sealant) I'm just trying to go about this the best I can so I don't have this problem again in the near future, thank you
Tonight for the first time I had to use the front windshield defroster on my new MDX and was appalled about how poorly it performed.
Outside vent was open and I tried with the AC on and off, increased/decreased the temperature and almost nothing. After about 15 minutes it started a mild defrosting of the top portion of the windshield. The bottom third was never removed.
I am puzzled because on my 2013 MDX the defrosting was almost instantaneous.
Is this a common problem with 2019 models or is it just mine?
